Friday, April 27, 2012

What a place to end the trip! Bavaria du bist Wunderbar!



What a surprise we got when we arrived in Garmisch-Partenkirchen! We had only booked 2 nights here as we were expecting a sleepy little town with nothing much to do, where we could recharge and get ready to head to Munich for the final days of our holiday. Little did we know that we wouldn’t get to Munichat all except for a direct trip from here to the airport! After our first night we went to reception and extended our stay here until the day we were flying out.

This town is simply stunning J

Surrounded by the Bavarian Alps, the town of Garmisch–Partenkirchen held the 1936 Winter Olympics and still has many of the facilities from that time. It also held the World Alpine Ski Championships in 1978 and 2011.

Imagine Nathan’s reaction when we found out that there was skiing guaranteed here for 7 months of the year and the day after we arrived a massive dump laid down some lovely fresh powder!

After a week of starving in Italywith ordinary (at best) food and ridiculously tiny portions we were looking forward to some hearty Bavarian food and we definitely weren’t let down here either! We have not managed to finish a single meal that we have been served since we got here.

We were both feeling quite run down as red meat and vegetables seem to be scarce in Italy(at least in the places where we ate!) and we had used a huge amount of energy while we were there, most days consisted of a minimum of 8 hours walking and we don’t stroll!

After just 2 meals we were already feeling better and a lot of our sore muscles had recovered J

Another surprise for us was that this little town sits at the base of Germany’s highest mountain at almost 3000 metres, the Zugspitze, so we decided we needed to go up there! Catching the cog wheel train it took us about an hour and a half to get to the top but the time just flew past as we were travelling through some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Getting out of the train at the top we walked through the ‘station’ and walked straight out into a snowstorm! We retreated to the restaurant to grab a hot chocolate and try the Bavarian version of Apfelstrudel mit Vanillesauce. It came in a very close second to the amazing Fuhrmannstube dish that we became addicted to in St Anton. As we were leaving on the train to return to town, the snow stopped, the clouds rolled away and there were blue skies and sunshine again! The landscape on the way down looked so different that it was like we had taken another route J

Day 4 here turned out to be a very quiet day. We woke up to rain in town which meant more snow was being dumped on the Zugspitze! I was also quite unwell, seems that I started the holiday with a cold and would be finishing it the same way! Rest was on the cards for me and since Nathan wasn’t keen on skiing while it was snowing he took a rest day as well. It was lovely to sit around with nothing to do; it’s been a very rare occurrence in the last 7 weeks!!

We finally left the hotel room at about 6.30pm to go and find a restaurant for dinner and made another great choice. I think no matter where we eat in this town the food will be amazing J

Day 5 is our last full day in Garmisch-Partenkirchenand my cold is worse but the blue skies and sunshine are back! Up a bit earlier than usual so we can have a quick breakfast and then I wave Nathan off to his day of skiing!

I spent the day just lounging around and repacking my backpack for what would be the final journeys of this holiday, the train trip to Munich and then the flight home to Brisbane.

Nathan came home just before dinner, his raccoon face back in full force after a day out on the slopes in blazing sun with no sunscreen! I had been used to seeing people with raccoon faces in St Anton but I had forgotten how funny he would look :D

We chose another restaurant for dinner and I was right, no matter where you go here the food is excellent and once again we couldn’t finish our meals let alone think about ordering dessert! No final Palatchinken for me sadly!

Our final day in Europe was nice and relaxed. Lazy breakfast, final pack and head for the train station to catch our train to Munich. I finally got to taste the Chilli cheeseburger from Hungry Jacks and it was good! Absolutely loaded with jalapenos!

Munich Airportis ridiculously huge and we managed to fill the hours between checkin and departure with eating, shopping and wandering around and the flights home were not as smooth as they could have been, but did nothing to tarnish the feeling of wellbeing that Garmisch had given us.

So that brings our Amazing European Adventure to an end. Thank you all for sharing the journey with us J

Europe…..Du bist Wunderbar!

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Romeo, Romeo, wherefore art thou Romeo?!


After some research, we decided to visit a little town in northern Italy called Verona for a day on our slow journey back to Munich. Verona is the little Italian town where Shakespear set his play Romeo and Juliette. Verona has a number of other unique attractions but their biggest drawcard for tourism appears to be Romeo and Juliette.

Strangely enough, this isn't what drew us to Verona, we were much more interested in the Verona Arena. The Verona Arena is very similar to The Colosseum in Rome, just on a much smaller scale and in much better condition. The people of Verona have kept the Arena in very good condition and it is still used today for Operas and Stage Plays. It was built at about the same time as the Colosseum so it's almost 2000 years old as well. Although much smaller than the Colosseum it is quite a bit more plush as all the marble in the building has not been pillaged, unlike the Colosseum where almost all the marble was taken and used in other buildings. I would imagine the Colosseum would have looked much more like the Verona Arena in it's heyday, just on a much grander scale.

The other major draw card for us at Verona was the Lamberti Tower. This is an enormous bell tower in the middle of the old part of town. After jumping in an elevator and heading up about a hundred meters you have a perfect 360 degree view of Verona. Even Mariya with her extreme fear of heights was keen to head up the tower and check out Verona from the air. Once up there though, it was different matter, it's very high when you're up there! We got a stack of great photos and the view is amazing, with a view of the skyline adorned with old buildings, churches, bell towers and castles. Make sure you check out the photos on Mariyas Facebook.

One of the best things we stumbled on to in Verona was their Italian food markets! Now this is the Italian food they should be advertising! There were hundreds of food stalls with so much awesome food. Arancini, Cannoli, cheeses, sausages of all types, wines, risottos, seafood, donuts and pastries, the list just goes on and on. We wanted to taste it all and the selection was mind boggling. Between us we tried arancini, candied lemon peel, bratwurst and cannoli. The food at the Markets is amazing and this is the produce that the Italians should be advertising to the world!

Verona is disturbingly attached to Romeo and Juliette. With so many other amazing drawcards, I'm not sure why they're drawn so vehemently to Romeo and Juliette as their premier attraction, but they really are. Romeo and Juliette is everywhere you look; cafes, restaurants, signposts, tourist paraphernalia, anything you can put a name to probably has a Romeo and Juliette added to the name somewhere. It's a bit overboard but clearly they're big fans. Needless to say, there are various "attractions" in Verona like Juliette's Balcony, Romeo's house, Juliette's tomb, and the list goes on. We had no problems finding the Juliette attractions, they're very well signed and big signposts lead you to their destinations. Poor Romeo, on the other hand, doesn't get anywhere near as much love. There were no directions to any of Romeo's attractions and after looking for awhile for Romeo's house we eventually gave up. Mariya and I initially thought that maybe Romeo and Juliette was based on real people due to the Verona people and their piety to story with monuments and attractions aplenty. Turns out it's not and the Verona-ians (that's a word right?) are just disturbingly attached to this fictional story.

With all of the sights and sounds of Verona seen in the afternoon of the day we arrived, we decided to head back to the hotel and organise our next, small, pre-Munich trip to a tiny little hamlet town in southern Bavaria (called Bayern in German) called Garmisch-Partenkirchen. What treasures would we find in the far south of Germany for a day or two before heading on to Munich to complete our Amazing European Adventure? You'll have to find out in the next blog post my avid blog digesters! Seeya then!

Sunday, April 22, 2012

A Tale of Two Cities – Venice and Verona


Venice was always on the agenda for this trip, we just didn’t know when it would happen.  I had always wanted to go on a real gondola ride and where else would you do this but Venice?!
In some ways though Venice was disappointing.  I don’t know what it was like years ago but the centre of Venice seems to be a caricature of itself….nothing here but Italian restaurants (every single one with an identical menu so you really don’t even need to choose between them), hundreds of shops and stalls selling exactly the same merchandise and hundreds of Gondolas that were all exactly the same price!  Then of course there were the Indian and Nigerian street sellers that we found in Rome.  They are less aggressive in Venice but still sell the same fakes and cheap trinkets and still disappear in a flash as soon as Police are in sight!
Walking through residential Venice was lovely though! The narrow lanes where most houses had window boxes filled with flowers and washing flapping on lines strung from windows.  The small canals with steps and gates that showed glimpses of sunlit courtyards. 
The waterbus system here is brilliant as well.  We bought a 36 hour pass that allowed us unlimited travel on all buses, waterbuses and trams and we definitely got our moneys worth!
Our first trip was out to Murano and it was very nice.  The boats are large with lots of seating and you can barely feel that you are on the water as they are so smooth.  Even when we had to stand we didn’t need to hold on at all.  Murano island is dedicated to glass and our first glass blowing demonstration blew us away!  If only it went for a little longer but it seemed that the demo was to draw us in only to have us shuttled straight into the shop after a few minutes.
The streets are lined with shop after shop, most selling the same thing as the last but we did find a couple of exceptions and these were the ones we bought from.  We were also on a mission to find a ring to replace one a friend had bought here a few years ago that had broken and when we found an onsite glassblower that could make one in less than 40 minutes we were pretty happy.  It’s not the same as her original one but it’s definitely one of a kind!
From Murano we went to Burano, one of the most beautiful little islands we have ever seen!  Every house was painted a different colour, some so bright we needed to wear sunnies!  It looked so cheerful and clean and bright!
The last place we visited was San Marco, a very old part of Venice judging by the amazing architecture we saw there.
We did consider going to Lido but decided that it might be better to visit in Summer as it is basically just a beach.
The next morning the first thing on our list was to do that Gondola ride!  Straight after breakfast we jumped on the first bus and headed into the centre of Venice.  We found a Gondolier that we liked (and that offered us a better price rather than let us walk away) and set off :)  The Gondola's here are beautiful!  Glossy black lacquer, padded seats, brocade pillows, gold ornamental decorations, tasselled footstools....they really set the mood.  The Gondoliers also wear the striped shirts and boater hats like in the old days and our Gondolier even whistled and sang when he wasn't explaining the sights as he poled us down the canals :)
I did have a couple of freaked out moments when the wash from a larger boat would make us rock but all in all it was a relaxing trip and I enjoyed it very much :)

We actually had no idea where we would be going after Venice, all we knew was we needed to be in Munich to catch our plane on April 26th which was about a week away.  I opened up my map of Europe and started tracing a path from Venice to Munich and saw Verona, the town where Romeo and Juliet was set and our next destination was decided :)

We did a bit of research and could see that Verona was quite small and didn’t have a lot of attractions so we decided that one night would be enough there.  Verona is only about an hour from Venice so it was nice and easy.  Late breakfast, check out and catch the first train out after that and arrive in Verona in time for lunch :)
And that’s exactly what we did!
After lunch we walked to the Verona Old Town and walked straight into an amazing food market!  Cannoli, doughnuts, waffles topped with custard, hundreds of cheeses, salamis, arancini, freshly baked breads…..for the first time ever I regretted stopping for lunch!  We made a mental note to stop by there for dinner though!
First stop in Verona was the Arena, a mini colosseum that has been converted into an open air theatre!  We then went and wandered the streets looking for Juliets Tomb….now I have to ask, why is there a tomb for an imaginary character??  But we found it along with Juliets House and the famous balcony.  They really take the story seriously here in Verona!!
We then tried to find Romeo’s house but the directions on the map were not very good.  It did amuse us to see a few other couples, wandering the same streets as us with the same map…maybe we should have joined forces and had a better chance of finding it!  At this point we could have used the very misunderstood “Romeo, Romeo, wherefore art thou Romeo” if I hadn’t known it didn’t mean “where art thou” rather than “why art thou” but we simply gave up and moved on to the Lamberti Tower (Torre Lamberti) - completed in 1463, this is the tallest of Verona's towers.  Nathan keeps saying I was very brave going up there and taking photo’s but I was on the edge of panic and blubbering the whole time so I really didn’t feel brave!
On to the beautiful Giardino Giusti (Giusti Gardens) and we had completed all of the sightseeing that we wanted to do in Verona!
Of course there were various churches, squares and castles that we also visited but these were more ‘along the way’ than planned.
Going back to our hotel via the food markets we grabbed a quick dinner and sat in the park adjacent to the markets and watched the beautiful fountain as we ate then leisurely strolled back to our hotel to decide where we would go the next day!
This is the latest we have ever left our planning….8pm and we have no idea where to go next, no hotel reservation...nothing!
So!  Finger back on the map and I come to a town on the border of Austria and Germany (Bavaria) called Mittenwald.  It looks small and quaint and I assume it has Austrian food!  Now after a week of starving in Italy and feeling like I was on the edge of getting scurvy due to a severe lack of fruit and vegetables, I was really excited to be going somewhere that would serve real food!
Next step is find a hotel but strangely the closest hotel in 8km away in a place called Garmisch-Partenkirchen…so we decide to go there instead :)

Saturday, April 21, 2012

The Merchants of Venice


The merchants of Venice are many. There are hundreds and hundreds of shops, street stalls and once again the "unofficial" Indian and Nigerian "portable street stalls". Venice really only has 4 things; lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of boats (including the obvious gondola tours), shops (that sell souveniers, pastries, chocolates, fresh produce etc), hotels and Italian Restaurants.

The boat system in Venice is impressive, as is the public transport full stop. There is not a single car in the city of Venice (other than on the bridge to Venice and the carpark right after it) and it would be a very weird experience staying in Venice for a week and not seeing a single motor vehicle. Everything in Venice is either done on foot or on a boat. The public transport in Venice consists of huge boat ferries that hold over a hundred people and are extremely popular. They jam onto the ferries like sardines and, at first, I was paranoid we were going to sink the boat with the amount of people that jumped on board. Once you get used to it though, the ferries are a great way to get around Venice and I can see why they're so popular. Aside from the public transport there are hundreds are water taxis that are just little speed boats, lots of boats used to transport around goods (like supplies for the restaurants and building materials for construction) and the requisite 1.2 million gondolas. Boats and the water are such an integral part of life for the people in Venice and I could see living there becoming quite tedious unless it was all you've known and were used to.

As I alluded to before, the merchants of Venice are legion. There are hundreds and hundreds of shops on every street corner of Venice. Most of the shops sell the same sorts of things and it would be a very tough market to stand out in. I would imagine a lot of the business generated for the shops would come down to position and whether or not you are lucky enough to be on a canal or next to a ferry stop. There are the usual wares here in Venice that you would expect, things like amazing Italian nougat (called Torronatta by the Italians), plenty of Venetian Masks, lots of "I Love Venice" paraphenalia in the form of t-shirts, hats, aprons etc, and plenty of fresh produce of both the vegetable and seafood kind. And then there's the Indians and Nigerians again. It was actually quite comedic to watch the "dance" of the police and these guys, it was like watching the tide go in and out. As the police walk along the boulevardes, the Indians and Nigerians watch for them, as soon as they see them they whisk up all their goods and walk away and set up further down the road. When the police walk back the other direction they then pick up again and move back to the better locations. Mariya and I entertained ourselves a little simply by watching for the police and then turning around to watch the Indians and Nigerians freaking out and scurrying in the opposite direction. Unfortunately, the Indians and Nigerians really do take away from the Italian experience and the Italian government really needs to do something about this but I'd imagine it is very tough to combat.

All the restaurants in Venice are once again Italian as is to be expected. I've been enjoying the pasta and pizza but there's only so many days in a row where you can eat like this. Strangely enough, there's 3 very big stand outs for us about the Italian dining. The first is the very apparent lack of garlic bread, we have not seen a single garlic bread on any of the menus so far. Very strange, considering in Australia we define Italian food as Pizza, Pasta and Garlic bread! The second thing is the distinct lack of garlic in general. Almost all the Italian food in Australia is very heavy on the garlic, it's almost non-existent here in Italy, something I'm loving but something Mariya doesn't like so much! The third glaring omission in Italy seems to be the lack of a spoon to eat your spagetti with. It seems everyone in Australia (except me) uses a spoon to twirl their spagetti, clear the Italians don't! All my years of eating spagetti without a spoon has adequately prepared me for my spagetti eating experience in Italy!

Venice itself was pretty in it's own way. The city is made up of small alleys with lots of dead ends resulting in a canal or building wall with no door. Luckily for us, we once again had Google Maps employed and our navigation of Venice was easy with GPS assistance, it would be much more challenging simply by map. The architecture in the first half of Venice is very simple with many tall buildings and tight alleys with some big beautiful buildings with pretty stonework and sculptures built along, and facing out to, the canals. We didn't think Venice was very pretty until we jumped on a ferry and headed out to San Marco, this must be the older part of Venice. The streets are much wider and built of marble. There are enormous buildings here like the large Basilica's and regal buildings were saw in Rome. This is a much more beautiful part of Venice and a must see. If you head to Venice, make sure you jump on the ferry and head out to San Marco.

So, what did we actually do in Venice? Not a huge amount actually, there doesn't seem to be much to do in Venice and if you had more than 2 or 3 days here you'd probably find yourself browsing the Internet in your hotel room.

On our first day in Venice after strolling through the city, looking at the stalls and shops we jumped on a ferry out to Murano. Murano is a little island near Venice that is world famous for glass blowing. One of Mariya's friends visited Murano years ago and bought a glass ring which she broke awhile ago. We spent a few hours walking through the Murano Glass Shops seeing if we could find something similar for her to replace it. Eventually we found a shop that made custom glass work and he made us up a similar ring and it only took just under an hour. While on Murano we also checked out a quick Glass Working demonstration which was really cool, these glass workers certainly have skills.

After Murano, we headed off to another little island near Venice, Burano. This was actually my favorite part of our Venice visit. Burano is a quaint little island that seems to be mostly residential with a few stalls, a Gelateria and a restaurant or two, but this isn't why the place stood out to me. What I really loved about Burano is that it's a small island with lots of little 2 and 3 story houses along the canals ... every house painted in a different bright colour! It looks amazing with the houses in reds, flouro greens, bright yellows, deep blues, purples, oranges, any bright colour you can think of. The place glows and it looks fantastic, we took plenty of photos of Burano and they're all on Mariya's Facebook so make sure you do yourself a favour and check them out.

Our second morning in Venice we were greeted with sunshine and decided to head to Venice and jump on a lovely gondola ride. We got to Venice, jumped on the ferry and pulled up at the main gondola area of Rialto. Walking up to the first gondola guy we saw, we asked him how much and how long? The answer was quite unexpected ... 200 euro ... umm wtf? Wow that's a lot more expensive than we'd expected but then he proceeded to tell us about his other options at 150 and then 100 euro. Hmm still too expensive for us, so we told him we'd keep looking. He then offered us 80 euro for the tour, afterall we would be his first customers for the day! No thanks we said, determined to get a reasonable price for our gondola ride. We wandered away and then his offsider caught up with us 50 meters down the road and offered us 70 euro, still too much we figured and continued onwards.

Walking off the main strip, we found a gondola guy and had a chat to him. He started out at 80 euro, a far cry from the 200 we'd started at with the other guy. This guy didn't seem very negotiable though and when we decided we'd continue on offered us a 60 euro fee as his first customers of the day, where have I heard that before? Mariya and I figured we probably wouldn't get much better than 60 euro for a 30 minute gondola ride and jumped on board. The gondola ride was lovely, nice, slow and very scenic. We oared around the canals and saw a number of sights including some of the old churches and Marco Polo's house. It was a beautiful cruise and we both enjoyed it immensely. As an aside, it appears the Venetians also claim ownership of Marco Polo. Petar told us in Croatia that Marco Polo was from an island in Croatia so I had to go home and research the origins of Marco Polo! It appears nobody actually really knows where Marco Polo came from, whether it was from Venice or the island in Croatia, very weird, you think there would be definitive information on his origins. As another aside, Mariya reckons the Marco Polo game came from the Gondoliers in Venice. Before the gondolas go around blind corners they yell out something that sounds like "Oar-ah", if they don't hear anything they figure the canal around the corner is empty and proceed around the corner. However, if another gondalier is around the corner he'll call something out in reply to let you know he's there. Marco?! POLO!

After our gondola ride we jumped on a ferry and spent some time at San Marco looking at the old architecture before heading back to our hotel to organise the next leg of our trip, to where, we had absolutely no idea! But considering we were leaving the next day we decided we better figure out where to head! I guess our next destination will be a surprise, even to us!

So much Rage in Rome


This blog has become so epic that a name change was almost in order. Mariya's suggestion of "Bigger than Ben Hur" almost got up, but the Italians are such an angry people that I had to stick with my original Blog Title.

The Romans, and by proxy the Italians I guess, are a very angry people. During the 3 days we were there we saw a lot of road rage from pedestrians, motorists, bus drivers and scooterers (is that even a word?!) alike. I think the Italians need to find a new, violent sport to de-stress with, clearly they haven't found a suitable replacement for gladitorial combat.

Rome is what we expected all the large European cities to be, it is by far the best big city we have visited. The streets are relatively clean and graffiti is at a minimum (and non-existent on their old architecture and monuments). The police presense is very heavy around their momuments and artifacts (The Colosseum, The Pantheon, The Vatican etc etc) but it is just that, a presence, they are not actively harassing or questioning people. They are simply there to discourage things like vandalism, graffiti and petty crime and it's done very well.

There are some annoying aspects to Rome as is to be expected. Don't take this the wrong way, I'll cover the things about Rome that annoyed me and then get into the good stuff. As disappointing as the bad stuff is, the good stuff well and truly makes up for it.

There are a huge amount of Indian Street Sellers. There are 2 types, ones that set up stalls with the usual cheap tourist baubles and the others that wander around the streets with umbrellas when it rains or roses and sunglasses when the sun is out. The wandering Indians are extremely pushing and generally won't take no for an answer the 1st, 5th or 10th time. You eventually have to yell at them to get them to leave you alone as they follow you up the road for 50 meters. One was so annoying that after 50 meters he "gave" Mariya a rose for free ... which she took just to shut him up and then 10 seconds later started asking for money. They're extremely annoying and really detract from the Roman experience. There are also some Nigerians trying to sell things but they're considerably less pushy. We saw a big group of Nigerian stalls (maybe 10 or 15) on the road near the Vatican. They must have had a lookout watching for Police because as we walked past them, all of a sudden all 15 stalls were packing up and in about 15 seconds they were walking away with their wares in hand. Clearly they know they're doing the wrong thing but still persist.

The other major detraction in Rome is the poor dining experience. This was actually a big surprise for me, I thought that the Italians prided themselves on a spectacular dining experience and that is a far cry from the true reality. Their food quality is, at best, half of what you make at home when you make your own spagetti. Couple that with some annoying "tactics" to increase their profit margins and it's a very disappointing experience. The 3 most annoying tactics were a "table charge" of 1 euro per person simply for sitting down, putting bread on the table without saying anything about it and then charging you for it at the end of the meal whether you eat it or not and pouring you a glass of wine right away whether you ask for it or not and then charging you as well. These are all very sneaky tactics for someone who has never been to Italy (and in my case I don't even want bread or wine as anyone who knows me would know). Once you get used to this and wave away the bread and wine I guess it's just an annoyance, but if you never properly checked your bill at the end of the meal you'd probably never even realize you were being charged for these things. Needless to say, we never tipped in any of these restaurants as we figured they'd already got their tip by using these dodgy tactics.

Onto the good stuff! Rome really is an amazing place; the sights are amazing, the old architecture is in pristine condition and the city really is beautiful!

We arrived in Rome on Saturday afternoon at about 3pm. We checked into our hotel and decided to walk down to The Colosseum (called the Colosseo in Italian) as it was only about a kilometer away (remember, it doesn't really get dark here until 8:30pm). The Colosseum is stunning in real life. While some of the brick work is starting to decay, you can't expect any different for a structure that is over 2000 years old. Mariya took heaps of photos and they're once again up on Facebook, yet another shameless plug to check out Mariya's Facebook photo albums. We lined up at the ticket entrance and started our wait. Almost right away one of the "Official Colosseum Hawkers" told us that we could jump in the fast line and pay an extra 5 euros, head to the front of the line AND get a guided tour of the Colosseum too ... hmm, this sounds a bit dodgy, let's just stay in the official line. After standing in the line for about 15 minutes and not really moving anywhere we decided that we'd go back to the guy and pay an extra 5 euros. When we got there we saw a sign in the middle line saying that it was the audio guide/guided tour line ... so we ignored the dude and just walked down the line. Sure enough, the line was about 2 minutes long and the fee an extra 5 euros with the included guided tour. That's not too bad we figured, considering the normal line looked to be at least an hour wait (and probably much longer). As we'd payed for the guided tour we decided to wait at the meeting point and go along. After a 5 minute wait and getting a little bored we looked at the tags they'd given us for the guided tour, they had 4:15 written on them ... hmm that's about 40 minutes away, well that sux the big one. We decided to walk around the Colosseum and look at some of the areas while staying close to the guided tour meeting point. Finally at 4:15 the guide arrived, for a summary of the tour check out Mariya's blog, but suffice to say that the tour wasn't very good. Just pay your extra 5 euros for quick entry and then ditch the tour (or if you're a tightass stand in the 2 hour line to save your  5 euro =p).

Walking around inside the Colosseum was amazing, they've preserved this building incredibly well. One end of the Colosseum Arena they have re-covered with a wooden platform to show what the Colosseum Arena was like. Obviously the original Colosseum wooden floor has long since decayed. The rest of the Colosseum Arena floor has been left open to allow visitors to see the "catacombs" area below the Colosseum floor where all the Gladiators, slaves, animals and christians were kept before their entry into the Arena. The Colosseum seated over 70,000 spectators! That's enormous for that day and age. People from all walks of life came for the enterainment which included drinking, gambling, gladitorial combat, executions and the "voluntary" slaughter of the christians. Being a Gladiator in many cases was actually a "career choice". Some people chose to become Gladiators and entered the Arena, they even had managers and support staff. Other Gladiators were slaves, prisoners or christians that would fight in the Arena to win their freedom. The average survival rate of a Colosseum Gladiator was about 2% over thier career, with the most successful Gladiators retiring (or finally succumbing) after no longer than 10-12 years. Gladitorial combat in the Colosseum was a very popular spectator sport where the spectators actually wanted to see a good fight and not a one sided slaughter.

On a hot day huge sails would be pulled over the Colosseum room to create shaded areas for the spectators. The wooden benches spectators sat on have long since rotted away but the stone butresses still exist and the stairways and tunnels leading to the seating areas looks surprising similar to something you would see at Lang Park or ANZ Stadium.

After our time in the Colosseum was over we wandered outside to see a huge archway with chariots and soldiers on top and latin inscriptions around the exterior. This is the Roman version of France's "Arc de Triomphe", but built about 1500 years earlier than the French one.

After getting some photos of the ruins around the Colosseum it was getting late and we decided to head back towards our hotel for some dinner. We stopped at a little cafe on the corner near our hotel for a light dinner. This ended up being our best dining experience in Rome! It was a very small cafe and Mariya and I were the only people seated for dinner. The service from our waiter was exceptional, we weren't treated to any dodgy tactics (like the bread, seating charge or wine mentioned above) and the food was good. We shared a Caprese salad (tomato, mozarella, lettuce) to start, then had a Quattro Formaggi (Four Cheese) Pizza followed by Lasagne for Mariya and Cannaloni for me. Mariya also had a glass of Lambrusco wine with her meal and we grabbed a bottle of water (apparently tap water doesn't exist in Rome, if you want water you need to buy it in a bottle with your meal). We got all of this and gave the waiter a tip, all inclusive for a price of 35 euros. This was only a cafe, so as you can imagine our expectations for restaurant dining in Italy were high.

After our dinner we found a nice little Gelateria two shops down from our hotel that had dozens of Gelati flavours on display. I was in heaven and even Mariya was tempted to try a Gelati or two. I grabbed a cone with 2 flavours, caramel and dark chocolate, and Mariya had a cone with just caramel. To say this Gelati was divine probably doesn't do it justice.

With our Gelati in hand we headed back to the hotel for an early night, in preparation for our big day in Rome the next day.

Our second day in Rome we decide to do a "Hop On, Hop Off" bus tour. The "Hop On, Hop Off" bus tour (I'll call it the HOHO from now on!) cost us 15 euro each for a 24 hour pass. This meant that we could use the HOHO buses for the next 24 hours. The HOHO buses basically stop at about 10 major sights across Rome and you can get on and off the buses at these points. When you jump on the bus they give you some headphones and tell you that Channel 1 is for english. We headed up to the top level of the bus (yay, they're double decker buses) and got a seat near the front. We plugged our headphones in, found Channel 1 and then spent the next 2 hours being driven around Rome, seeing the sights and being given an Audio tour talking about the sights, their names, their history, how old they are, who built them etc etc. It was really interesting and we learnt a lot about the history of Rome. We decided to do the HOHO bus circuit once and then decide where we'd get off on the second lap and be tourists.

The HOHO bus lap was enormous and the stops were as follows. We boarded the bus at the Colosseum stop, we then headed to the Palace of the old Ceasars (called The Forum). The next stop was a huge monument which included the Italian Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (guarded 24/7 as all the Unknown tombs are). The Angels Bridge and Castle was the next stop, shortly followed by the stop at the Vatican where the bus driver takes a 10 minute break and to let people on and off the bus. The next stop is then the Spanish Square with the Spanish Steps nearby. On Saturdays and Sundays your next stop after the Spanish Square is for the Rome Zoo and Villa Borgese, on weekdays this stop is for the Trevi Fountain. So on our Sunday tour we just cruised past the Zoo and Villa Borgese. You then head onto the stop at Barbarini Square; the Barbarini's are a famous family in Rome and one of them was a Pope. They were responsible for destroying almost all the "pagan" constructions (ie non-Catholic buildings) in Rome and there's a famous quote about them, "What the barbarians didn't destroy, the Barbarini's did". That's a little disappointing but it was the middle ages after all. You then head to the "first" stop in the HOHO bus loop which is their central stop near the main transport hub. This stop is primarily for more passengers to once again get on and off and for the bus driver to take another little break. The last stop on our loop (before getting back to the Colosseum) was a stop that I can't remember for the life of me, clearly it wasn't that important =P I certainly don't remember anything significant at that stop. As you can see, the HOHO bus loop was enormous and took almost 2 hours. You can see almost all the sights of Rome with a quick lap of the city and it's well worth the 15 euros for 24 hours access to the bus line.

The first stop we decided to get off at on our 2nd lap was the monument to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The first area we headed to here was Michaelangelo's Steps. These are long sloped steps (each step is about 2 meters long) that lead up to a courtyard with 3 museums covered in sculptures of people, horses and roman gods (yes, there are many, many sculptures in Rome). Plenty of photos were taken, and as expected, they're up on Mariya's Facebook. Behind these museums is a giant archeological site where the Romans have uncovered a huge ruins site of ancient Rome dating back almost 2500 years.

After taking photos of these areas we decided to head back down Michaelangelo's Steps and check out the Tomb of the Unknown Solider. This monument is magnficent! It's a huge building with giant fountains out the front with naked men (hmm almost all the architecture in Rome includes a naked man of some sort) and there's 2 giant bronze chariots with horses and soldiers on the roof. There are dozens of sculptures of soldiers, angels and women adorning the building and as you walk up the stairs you are greeted by three Italian soldiers guarding the tomb. There are 2 fires eternally burning on the sides of the tomb and the mosaics on the tomb were beautiful.

After we took photos at the tomb unfortunately the weather started to turn ugly on us. The clouds rolled in and some light rain started failing so we decided to grab a coffee and then jump back on the bus and head back to our hotel. Fortunately for us, it was about 3pm, the weather had held out all day (we had sun most of the morning even though the forecast predicted very poor weather) and we didn't feel like we'd lost much sightseeing time in the day.

After a short rest and recovery break at our hotel we decided to venture out for dinner at an Italian Restaurant just around the corner. This would prove to be a devastating decision and the worst dining experience of the holiday, if not our entire lives.

I've eluded to the poor dining experience in Rome earlier in my blog. Our dinner this night largely contributes to the abhorent dining experience in restaurants during our Rome visit. The restaurant was called Le Virtue in Tavola (remember that name, and run screaming like a little girl in the opposite direction if you ever see it). To say this restaurant was absolutely digusting and abhorent is probably being generous to them.

While their menu looked good and their prices were reasonable this is the first restaurant we have visited where Mariya felt the need to visit Trip Advisor and 1 star it, warning future prospective patrons away. We decided to have a pasta for our 1st course and then scallopine as a main course. The prices were reasonable and even with 2 courses we were paying a similar price to anything you would see in Australia (note: most of the Italian restaurant menus we looked at were in a similar price range). When the waitress came to take our order she placed a bread basket on the table and filled our glasses with wine, we had said nothing to the waitress at all at this point in time. Refer to the above in my blog where I talk about the sneaky tactics some Italian restaurants use to make more money. Mariya and I were surprised about the wine and bread but figured it was just a nice extra they provided to give their patrons a more pleasant experience. Plenty of the other countries we've been to over the last 2 months have provided us with various freebies during our dining experiences. Alas, that was not to be, we were sneakily charged for both the wine and bread at the end of the meal.

For my pasta I ordered a Bucantini alla Matriciana which was actually quite good, it's such a shame that the rest of the dinner couldn't even come close to comparing with it. Mariya's pasta was a "Meat Ravioli in a Tomato Sauce" called Ravioli Pomodoro. Well the ravioli actually came out looking like fat little dumplings ... I've never seen ravioli like that before but maybe that's how they do it in Italy ... or not. The ravioli were weird little dumplings with a ricotta and basil pesto filling which tasted horrible ... not exactly the meat ravioli Mariya was expecting. For our second course we both ordered scallopini. I ordered the Scallopini al Porto, Mariya ordered the Scallopini al Limone and we ordered a plate of steamed vegetables to share. This is where things turned from bad to worse. Mariya's veal came out uncrumbed (scallopini is always crumbed AND the german translation of the meal was kalbschnitzel), was pure white with an ugly purple colour around the edge, was slimy and stunk to high heaven like rotten meat. While mine looked similarly unappetising, it didn't reek of rotten meat and was at least edible. Our "Plate of Steamed Vegetables" was a horrible spinach stew which I attempted to eat twice but couldn't stomach. I quickly wolfed down my meat while Mariya was progressively getting greener and we jumped up to pay. After disputing some of the bill, where they tried to explain that the "Bread" on our bill was a table fee (which we outright refused to pay), we left the restaurant in disgust.

Off to our Friendly Neighbourhood Gelateria! At least we could slightly recover the evening with awesome Gelati from our friendly Icecream Lady who reminded me of the Icecream Lady from the Simpsons =) That night Mariya elected to have a cone with 2 flavours, coffee and dark chocolate, while I tried two new flavours, chocolate chip and a weird yellow and brown gelati. I have no idea what it was but it tasted bloody amazing!

With our night partially recovered thanks to Super Awesome Sauce Gelati Lady, we walked back to the hotel for another early night.

For our third day in Rome we had a bold plan. With the poor weather cutting our previous day short we had a lot to see and had to stick to a tight schedule. So with a pre-planned route programmed into Google Maps on my phone we jumped on the HOHO bus and headed for the Trevi Fountain.

A quick 30 minute bus trip saw us delivered to the middle of Rome, near the Trevi Fountain. With Google Maps in operation and GPS providing our exact location the walk to the Trevi Fountain was nice and easy. I really don't know how tourists travelled Rome before Google Maps on their phones. This is one confusing city and even has Brugge beat, hands down. The Trevi Fountain was breathtaking. The Fountain is enourmous and built into the side of a giant building. Seeing photos of the Trevi Fountain really doesn't do it justice and seeing it with your own eyes is a real treat.

Our next stop was the Spanish Steps, located in the Spanish Quarter. With awesome GPS locator device in hand aka Google Maps, it was a quick 5 minute walk from the Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps. Unfortunately there was some maintenance work happening on the Steps, a crew of carpenters were building temporary seating, some sort of event must be coming up soon here. We still managed to take quite a few photos but the wood work and vast amount of people just sitting on the steps unfortunately detracted from our photo opportunities. They are very beautiful though and constructed purely from Marble, they must be worth a fortune!

Our next destination was the Pantheon. The Pantheon in Roman times was constructed as a place where people of all religions could go to pay homage to their god. This was probably one of the biggest things I was looking forward to in Rome as I expected it to have a very real "Ancient Rome" feel about it, being dedicated to all the Roman Gods by it's commissioner Augustus Ceasar. I was disgusted to find that the building had been desecrated in about 700 AD by the Catholic Church. In about 700 AD the Catholic Church wanted to demolish the Pantheon completely but the Emporer of the time managed to convince them to instead simply concecrate the Pantheon and turn it into a Chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. What a huge disappointment to see the Pantheon treated in such a way, but at least it still stands today. There are no longer any references to the old Roman Gods in the Pantheon and the building is simply filled with shrines to Santa Maria and the tombs of a couple of Italian Kings. It is no longer the bastion of religious tolerance that it was originally intended to be.

After visiting the Pantheon, Mariya and I decided to stop in the Pantheon Square and grab a coffee before starting our walk out to the Roman Courthouse, as well as the Angel Bridge and Castle. We had seen the Roman Courthouse (that is still used today) from the bus, but seeing it up close was another thing. It is an incredible structure adorned with hundreds of sculptures of soldiers, judges, angels and demons. It's certainly very impressive for a courthouse and leaves the ones we have in Australia to shame.

Our next stop was the Angel Bridge and Castle. We also saw these from the bus but getting up close to them is an entirely new experience. The Angel Bridge is a huge bridge crossing the river Tiber, leading to the Angel Castle. The Angel Bridge has dozens of sculptures of angels in different poses holding things like the cross and the baby Jesus etc. The Angel Castle is a huge circular fort with a giant gold statue of an angel on top. Catholic legend says that the Archangel Michael appeared on the roof to declare the end of the bubonic plague, and shortly after the gold statue was erected to represent this.

A hundred meters further down the river is a much more impossing and impressive bridge. This bridge has 4 huge sculptures, each of an angel, on each corner of the bridge and I'm sure they're representative of something but we weren't provided any information. The angels are all in different poses and carry different objects, one has an olive branch, another the ceasar's wreath, the third a set of scales and the last a sword and shield.

After taking many pictures of both bridges and the castle our next destination was Vatican City. It is regulalry spruiked that The Vatican has a population of 1, this is actually wrong and it's really in the ballpark of about a thousand. The police presence here was significant and there are many security barriers and checkpoints to ensure that nothing "untoward" enters Vatican City. Mariya and I decided our first port of call was to be Saint Peters Basilica (or Santa Pietro's Basilic in Italian), the resting place of Peter the Apostle, who has now apparently been appointed the world's first Pope, I would imagine this was done posthumously. This Basilica is enormous, I don't believe I've ever been in a building this big. The sheer value of this structure would be completely priceless. There are, once again, scluptures everywhere of things like the virgin Mary, Christ, Saints and previous Popes. If the world ever starts to run out of gold, I think we've found a huge supply available in the middle of Rome. No word of a lie, I think there'd be hundreds of tons of gold in this Basilica. Much of the marble adorning the floor in this building was actually scavenged from The Colosseum and The Pantheon and there is no shortage of it here. The presence of an enormous Egyptian Obelisk out the front of the Basilica was also quite interesting, apparently this was placed there by a ceasar almost 2000 years ago. The Basilca is still used for Mass every week and people can attend services here weekly. In the middle of the Basilica is an enourmous black monument which seemed quite out of place. It's not until you actually get much closer that you realise this is the tomb of Peter the Apostle.

We were going to go up to the Cupola of the Basilica (which we assumed was the big domed area on top) but after finding out we had to climb over 300 steps we decided to head off to the Vatican Museum and Michaelangelo's Sistine Chapel (or Sistina Capella in Italian). You walk around the outside of The Vatican for about 2 kilometers and come to the entrance of the Vatican Museum, the entrance to the Sistine Chapel is inside the museum. Mariya and I were primarily interested in visiting the Sistine Chapel and thought we might brown the Vatican Museum briefly afterwards ... or not. Apparently The Vatican believes you must see all of the Vatican Museum before you are allowed entry in the Sistine Chapel. As such, we spent about 2 hours walking through the museum in a strategically designed one way path to ensure you see every nook and cranny of the museum before gaining entry to the Chapel. As bad as I've made it sound, it was actually pretty good. The sheer volume of art and sculptures that has been collected by The Vatican over the centuries is simply breathtaking. The museum is filled with sculptures, art, woven rugs, architecture and many treasures of a time past and I can understand how art lovers could easily spend days walking the halls of this museum. After about 2 hours we came to a sign that read "The short route to the Sistine Chapel", score both Mariya and I high fived and scooted down that hallway. Entering the next door, we were greeted with a booming female voice on the PA system in various languages stating that all photography in the Sistine Chapel was forbidden. Bummer guys, looks like if you want to check the place out, you're gonna have to go there yourselves. The Sistine Chapel was actually quite small, but the roof was very high, probably 10 meters or so. The entire Chapel was adorned with Michaelangelo's art and was a spectacular sight to see. The walls were painted with curtains, and they actually looked real, you only realised it was a painting once you got up close. They have saved themselves a fortune on their laundry bill! Mariya and I spent about 15 minutes viewing the art in the Chapel before we decided it was time to move on.

With our time in Rome coming to an end, we decided to head to the Rome Termini Train Station to buy our train tickets do our next destination, Venezia.

Our last tourist activity for the day we decided to visit the ruins of The Forum (you remember The Ceasar's Palace I mentioned earlier right?). We walked down to the ruins at about 4:45pm and unfortunately found them closing up for the day, how disappointing =(

Ah well, off to dinner and another ordinary dining experience. On our first evening in Rome we spotted a big street with dozens of restaurants, it looked awesome and we made a mental note to head back there for dinner one evening, tonight would be that night.

After checking the menus and prices of half a dozen places we settled on a restaurant that offered to throw in a free drink for each of us. We took a seat and decided to order the platter for 2 as our entree and Mariya chose Spagetti alla Matriciana and I selected Penne Arriabatta as our main meals. Our free drinks arrived and unfortunately they were a tasteless, watered down, dry, sparkling white wine. Needless to say, neither of us ended up drinking them, I wish they'd just let us pick a coke or something =) Bread also arrived on the table in their usual sneaky fashion and we spent 10 minutes trying to get them to take it away as we said we would not eat it. Strangely enough, people accross the room at another table were trying to order a wine with their dinner and the restaurant owner argued with them for about 10 minutes on their wine selection saying it was far too sweet to accompany a main meal and even forced them to taste a wine he thought they should have (a dry red, which clearly they didn't like). It seemed that after about 10 minutes of trying to get the wine they wanted (a muscato), they gave up and just ate their dinner before promptly leaving. but enough about them, on to our dining experience! In the menu pictures our platter looked amazing, in reality it wasn't so great. We payed 15 euro per person (which is quite alot for a menu item in Italy) and ended up with a plate containing about 4 thin slices of salami, 4 thin slices of prosciutto, 4 small bits of mozzarella, a couple of pieces of what looked and tasted like parmesan, a couple of slices of tomota and some lettuce. Obviously we were very disappointed with the platter based on the price we had payed. Our mains were at least better value for money. Mariya's Spagetti tasted scarily like Heinz canned spagetti. It appears Heinz have done an amazing job at reproducing an authentic Italian Spagetti alla Matriciana at only a dollar a can. However, my penne was actually pretty good. We were then asked if we wanted to try some dessert and we told the waiter, "Hell no biatch, I'm off to the Amazing Awesome Sauce Gelati Lady!". I probably didn't use those exact words, I'd imagine it was more along the lines of "No thanks."

Could the Gelateria save our evening once again?! Do I really have to ask that question? Of course it could! This night Mariya lost her mind and decided not to sample gelati, crazy right?! She went with 2 different tarts, an almond and cherry tart and a sour berry tart. Mariya thought they were awesome, but why would you not selecet a gelati, dear god?! I think she had a fever that night. As usual, I made the wise decision of selecting a gelati or 2, but this time I went with a little cup rather than a cone. I went with 2 flavours, an amazing Cassata gelati which was a vanilla gelati with cherries and peels in it and the other flavour I went with was Baci. Mariya was green with envy at my gelati selection and was desperate to swap her tarts for my amazing gelati-ish deliciousness.

With our last night in Rome saved by Gelati once again we went back to our hotel for another early night and to prepare for our trip to Venice.

Our time in Rome was amazing and it's an experience we'll never forget. As much as I bagged it out, I really loved the place and we probably could have easily spent another 3 or 4 days there. There is plenty to see and do, and aside from the dining experience, it is certainly one of our better European destinations we have visited so far. On to Venice!

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Leaving Croatia and The Eternal City

Our taxi ride from Opatija to Trieste was quick and easy.  Doing border control from a taxi was much simpler than the train (and apparently if you are on a bus you have to get off to be processed), the customs person didn’t even open her window, just waved us through….a bit scary really since I had just seen the sign that said taking dairy products across the border was prohibited and I had a backpack filled with dairy!!
First thing we needed to do when we got to Trieste Station was buy our tickets to Rome.  The person behind the counter sat there reading a magazine and ignoring us!  We were used to being in lines and being called when the person was ready but this one looked like she would never call us so we walked up.  She begrudgingly closed her magazine and printed our tickets, we had to ask for details such as platform, reserved seats etc, this was also strange as most of the ticket sales people would print out the entire itinerary and then explain it to us.  Turned out the first part of our journey was on a local line so no reservation was possible.  After our CroatiaRail experience that made me nervous but it turned out okay as the train was almost empty when we got on.
Of course the second thing I needed to do was find a toilet.  I left Nathan with all the bags except my handbag as I have learned never to go to the toilet without my wallet.  It is a VERY rare toilet in Europe that is free!  I walked into the (free!!) Ladies and got my first surprise….no toilets!  Every cubicle had a ceramic hole in the ground….ugh!!  No choice, I need to go!!  The floor was wet and there was nowhere to hang my bag, trying to keep the cuffs of my jeans off the floor plus hold up my coat and bag while balancing over this hole was a challenge!  Luckily my leg muscles have been getting a huge workout during this holiday and were up to the task!
So mission accomplished I went to leave the cubicle….turn the lock, click….door is still locked….turn it the other way, click….door is still locked….turn it back the other way…lock spins and spins and spins but door is still locked.  No gap to crawl under….no gap to climb over….I’m trapped in this freaking toilet!!!  I started shaking the door and trying to rattle it open…I can hear someone drying their hands but they are ignoring me!  So I try the Microsft approach, hold the handle down, push outward while spinning the lock and on one of the clicks the door opens and I am free!  My hands were shaking though and my heart was racing….I had visions of being trapped there forever!
In the meantime Nathan was outside the toilets fending off JW’s…random?
We got on the train and got comfortable, the train did fill up very fast but we had seats so I was happy!  The conductor came along (don’t try and evade fares in Europe, there are conductors on every single train!) and gave us a fright!  Apparently in Italy when you catch a train on a local line you must buy your ticket then take it and have it validated before you get on the train!  We had no idea as this was our first trip and the woman that sold us the tickets said nothing.  He warned us that it carried a fine of €30pp but since we were obviously tourists and had no idea he would just give us the advice and not fine us….just goes to show that we are at the mercy of others when we don’t know the local customs!
The 2nd train had reserved seats and was an Italian tilt train!  Super fast, super comfortable…we were in Rome in no time!
Out of the station, into a taxi (hmmmm…thought the fare was a bit high but had nothing to compare it to til the return trip was €8 cheaper!) and we checked into our hotel then walked straight back out to go and visit the Colosseum, a short 10 minute walk away!
The Colosseum didn’t disappoint but the way the tours were handled did!  There were two lines, one for normal entry which was a mile long, the other for guided tours which was very short.  The hawkers out the front told us that the guided tours would cost €5 each on top of the ticket but we could go straight in!  Sold!  So we got in there and then were told that it would be about 45 minutes until our guide would be ready…..fail!!!!  We wandered around a little but stayed quite close to the guide meeting point as we figured we had paid so we may as well get the tour.  Our group ended up being quite big and I have to say, not many of them seemed happy….one small group even went and complained at the end as the tour consisted of us being given small mobile phones that had terrible reception and the guide with poor English and a very thick accent guided us from one random picture (large photo’s) and told us random stories for half an hour….we didn’t even get to go to any area that we couldn’t have done on our own!  So lesson learned, pay the extra €5 and skip the line then guide yourself around, you’ll enjoy it a lot more!
As we hadn’t really orientated ourselves, we decided that dinner close to home would be a good idea and went to a little café/restaurant near our hotel.  The service here was brilliant and we couldn’t believe how cheap everything was!  We were starving so we ordered a Caprese Salad to share for starters, a Quattro Formaggio pizza to share, then for mains I got Lasagne, Nathan got Canneloni and we shared a glass of Lambrusco and the whole lot only cost us €32!  Amazing!!  The waiter seemed to take great pleasure in bringing our food, he even brought over extra olive oil and balsamic for our salad before we asked!
Sadly this was the only good meal that we managed to get in Rome, seems most of the places in the area we were staying had a focus on cheap ingredients and dodgy tactics to get you to spend more than you intended to.  We knew to look out for these tricks as we did quite a lot of research before we got there but we still expected the food to be of good quality.  One of my meals was made with meat that was so old that the rancid smell made me nauseous!  Another pasta dish looked and tasted exactly like Heinz Spaghetti in tomato sauce from a can.  Certainly not what we were expecting!!
On the other hand the desserts were excellent wherever we went….Gelati, Cannoli, Tarts…all winners!

Day two and we decided to do one of the Hop on/Hop off bus tours that take you past all the most famous sites.  We thought this would be a good way to orient ourselves and figure out what we really wanted to see.  The tour took a couple of hours and then we decided our first stop would be The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  This is a beautiful building and area and we were touched by the level of respect they show for this tomb.
Another terrible meal for afternoon tea though!  We ordered 2 bruschetta’s, one with pepperoni and another with olive paste….and got one with sliced capsicum instead of pepperoni!  I asked the waiter if this was correct and after yelling and arguing with the other waiter who took our order he whisked off the plate and brought back the capsicum bruschetta with a couple of slices of salami plonked on it….hmmm…better than nothing I suppose….we scraped off the capsicum and ate it.  Nathan also ordered a Limoncello as he has been determined to try all the local alcohols.  It was lovely!  So tart it gave the inside of my mouth goosebumps but with a satisfyingly warm afterglow :)
The strangeness continued with this café when we went up to the counter to pay the bill.  The original waiter wouldn’t speak to us anymore and just ignored us so we had to wait for the other waiter to come back, he then asked us what we wanted…um we have finished eating and drinking and would like to pay our bill!
At that point it started raining so we decided to go back to our hotel.  It was starting to get a little late though so we didn’t feel like we had wasted the day.

Day three we woke up to glorious blue skies and sunshine again!  This was my favourite day in Rome!  We had our list of places to go and things to see, Nathan had plotted our course in Google Maps and we still had a time left on our bus ticket so we didn’t have to pay!
Our first stop was the Trevi Fountain and it took my breath away!  It is so big!  It towered over everyone and the level of detail and crystal clearness of the water was just amazing!
Second stop was the Spanish Steps.  They were building some temporary seats about half way up them and had the area taped off which spoiled the view a little but we still climbed all 138 steps to the church at the top…the view from up there was spectacular! 
Third stop was the Parthenon.  Nathan was quite disappointed to find that the Parthenon was now a Catholic Shrine to Santa Maria, I think he would have loved to have seen the original Parthenon but they changed it back in around 700AD ;)
Last stop for the day was going to be Vatican City.  We stopped for a coffee to recharge and then began the long walk along the Tiber river across the amazing bridges including the Angels Bridge.  The statues on these bridges are stunning, I know I use this word a lot but there is nothing else that describes them so well!
The only bad part of this bridge are the street sellers.  They really are a blight on the landscape with their cheap and nasty wares, fake bags and wallets, sunglasses, cheap knockoffs of everything! 
Finally we made it to Vatican City and decided to go to St Peters Basilica first.  The security checks only took a few minutes and then we were in.  What can I say but stunning again!  The paintings, the marble statues, the mosaics, the ceilings, walls and floors….every inch of this place had something amazing to look at.
On to the Vatican Museums as you must go through them to get to the Sistine Chapel.  The Museums meander for what seems like kilometres….room after room of amazing sights; tapestries, paintings, statues, carvings…..history in pictures and then FINALLY! the Sistine Chapel.  This Chapel defies description….every inch of the walls and ceiling are filled with images….the painting is so lifelike the walls look like hung silk drapes are covering them, the ceiling is covered in images that I have only seen in pictures before…it was hard to understand why this was such a feat until I saw it with my own eyes.  There was no spiritual feeling here like at Notre Dame but a huge respect for the man that created the artwork.

Another ordinary meal brought the day to a close and an easy morning this morning as we had a leisurely breakfast before packing up and heading back to the train station.  So here I am, sitting on another train, writing another blog and looking forward to arriving in Venice in a couple of hours.
What oh what is Venice going to give us!?


Saturday, April 14, 2012

Dobro Jutro Hrvatska!

Mariya has done 2 very comprehensive blogs about Croatia so I'm going to keep mine short and go over the things that really left an impression on me.

Firstly, and most importanly, the people. We stayed with an absolutely amazing family; Petar, Nena (Mariya's cousin) and Vlad (Petar and Nena's son). Nena offered her home to us when she found out we were coming to visit Croatia and their hospitality was absolutely amazing. Petar is charismatic, humorous, friendly and intelligent with a vast knowledge of all things Croatia. Couple that with a great grasp of the english language and Mariya and I couldn't have asked for a better tour guide of Eastern Croatia than Petar. Nena was a phenomenal chef of the greatest proportions. We ate bigger and better in Croatia than anywhere else in Europe so far thanks to Nena. Mariya has even been inspired to learn how to make her own salami. Nena's parents took us into their home for both Easter Friday and Easter Sunday lunches. They were so friendly, we felt right at home and even though our communication boiled down to hello's, good bye's and thank you it felt completely natural. As always, the people make the holiday and we were surrounding by lovely and interesting people. We've made great, new friends in Croatia and already planning our next visit to catch up with them all as soon as possible.

As far as Croatia itself goes, our time here was very different to any other coutry we have been to.

Some parts of the country are still war torn and leave you with a real sense of melancholy. Many towns and villages still bear the marks of a war 15 years past and there is no escaping the realities of the impact this had on Croatia. Land mines are still a serious issue for Croatians even now, with constant warnings to never leave the road in your car or walk too far from common areas. This is the first country I have visited where the ravages of war are unhidden, for all to see and it leaves you unsettled.

On the other hand, some parts of Croatia are absolutely stunning and words can't express the beauty of some of the locations. The Danube (pronounced doo-nab by the locals) is huge and majestic, parts of the country side are green and lush and the coastal areas in Western Croatia are simply breathtaking. Croatia has a lot to offer the adventurous tourist and I'm without doubt that it will become a popular location in the years to come.

The food, oh my god, the food! The food the Croatians cook and eat is amazing. They eat a huge variety of food with things like pork, beef, chicken and seafood making regular appearances on their plate. Almost all of their food has chilli of some sort and they cook enough to feed an army with every meal, yep Mariya is definitely Croatian. The list of amazing foods is almost endless but the big standouts for us were things like cevapi, paprikash, rissoles with cheese in the middle, shish-kebabs and their hundred varieties of home made salami. The food is to die for and there's always more than you can eat. I think even Brock would struggle with their portion sizes.

The travel in Croatia is challenging, I'm sure you've read Mariya's blog by now. I told her she should name the blog "EURail to Fail", it was pretty bad at times. Needless to say, both Mariya and I breathed a sigh a relief when we found out we could get a taxi, cheaper than public transport, to get to Trieste in Italy to continue our journey to Rome.

Our time in Croatia was educating and enlightening. We met fabulous new people and saw both exciting and disturbing sights. It's certainly an experience that neither of us will forget.